Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
